Namda: The Felt Rug Craft That Kashmir Is Slowly Losing

There is no weaving involved in making a Namda.

No loom. No shuttle. No warp and weft. A Namda is not woven into existence — it is pressed, rolled, soaked, and coaxed. The wool fibres are entangled with each other using water, soap, and hours of physical pressure until they bond into a single sheet of felt. Then come the embroiderers, adding colour and pattern with Aari needlework.

The result is a rug unlike any other — warm underfoot, thick, soft, with a depth of colour that comes from thread worked into felt rather than printed on top.

It is also one of Kashmir's most endangered crafts.

A Rug With a Thousand-Year History

The Namda craft dates back to the 11th century, though its deeper roots lie in the nomadic felt-making traditions of Central Asia. Felted products are an integral part of nomadic life in the northern and central Asian steppes — the technique was probably first discovered in Central Asia, where people needed warm, portable floor coverings that could be made without a loom.

In India, the Namda took off during the time of the Mughal emperor Akbar. It is said that he was so impressed by a man named Nubi, who gave Akbar a Namda to shield his horse from the cold, that the emperor granted the Namda-maker large swathes of land.

In Kashmir, the Namda became a household staple. The locals of Kashmir as well as the royals used Namdas for centuries to keep their family and guests warm when sitting on the floor. In traditional Kashmiri homes, a Namda was layered beneath a Gabba — a rug made of recycled blankets — to provide insulation from the cold stone floor during winter.

How a Namda Is Made

Wool Selection and Carding

The felting process begins by enmeshing layers of evenly laid, clean wool fibres with the help of moisture, soap, and mechanical pressure, often applied with a tool called pinjra. The wool used is typically local sheep wool. The fibres are first cleaned, then carded — separating and straightening the fibres — to produce an even, fluffy layer ready for felting.

Creating the Border and Layers

The artisan first creates the border of the rug. Then the main layer is built up — here the weaver decides on the colour and pattern of the Namda, intertwining it carefully with the wool. Different coloured wool can be incorporated at this stage to create base designs.

Felting: The Heart of the Process

The next step is sprinkling soap solution on the Namda. The wool starts to bind with other wool fibres, making the Namda more durable and long-lasting. The sheet is rolled up against a jute mat and moved in a to-and-fro motion, tied up to squeeze out excess moisture. The rug is rolled for hours till it is sturdy enough. Once the rug has been rolled sufficiently, it is washed and dried flat in the sun.

Aari Embroidery: The Final Touch

Finally, the carpet is embellished with Kashmiri Aari embroidery — a hooked needle used to pull coloured thread through the felt, creating raised floral and geometric patterns on the surface. The motifs draw from Kashmir's natural world: chinar leaves, lotus flowers, vines, paisleys. Some rugs take weeks or even months to complete.

The Crisis: An Endangered Craft

Namda has been listed as an 'Identifiable endangered craft of India' by the Development Commissioner, Handicrafts. Exports fell by almost 100 per cent between 1998 and 2008. In the 1970s, Namdas used to account for annual exports worth ₹300 crore.

There is, however, reason for cautious hope. More than 2,200 artisans from the Valley — mainly girls — recently dispatched the first batch of an export consignment worth $1.5 lakh received from the UK, Japan, Holland and Germany — the first export for J&K-made Namdas in over 25 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a Namda rug made from?
Sheep wool that is felted — not woven — using water, soap, and pressure. The wool fibres bind together to form durable felt, then embellished with Aari embroidery.

What makes Namda different from other rugs?
Unlike woven rugs or carpets, Namda involves no loom or weaving. The structure comes entirely from felting — entangling wool fibres with moisture and pressure.

How long does a Namda rug take to make?
A basic Namda takes several days. Elaborate Aari embroidery coverage can take weeks to months.

Is Namda still being made in Kashmir?
Yes, though artisan numbers have declined sharply. Government revival programmes have trained over 2,000 new artisans and recently secured the first export orders in over 25 years.

Conclusion

A Namda is Kashmir's answer to the cold — born not on a loom but through the patient entangling of wool fibres, finished with embroidery that can take months to complete. Every Namda bought from an authentic source is a direct act of support for artisans keeping this tradition alive.

At Kashmir Origin, we source directly from Valley artisans. No middlemen, no imitations.

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Published by Kashmir Origin — A Brand for Products Originating in Kashmir